Do It Yourself Questions Answered

Several do it yourself questions have been submitted over the past several months. I don't have much experience fixing things, so I asked an expert to answer a few questions. His name is Mark Donovan of HomeAdditionPlus.com

Questions asked by Do-It-Yourselfers

1. When installing kitchen cabinets, what is the proper sequence for the installation (uppers before base cabinets; starting point; etc.)?

a. HomeAdditionPlus.com Answer: Always install the upper kitchen cabinets first so that you have the room to get in close and hold the cabinets in position (often using a temporary ledger board (e.g. furring strip)) while you fasten them to the wall. Start the installation in either a corner or at one end.

2. Is it okay to hang wallpaper on a wall where hot-water baseboard heat already exists?

a. HomeAdditionPlus.com Answer: I have done so numerous times and never had an issue with the wall paper peeling away, even after the wall paper had been up for many years.

3. When working on an outdoor project, are there any particular issues I should be aware of? This could relate to driveways, curb appeal, patio/deck construction, etc.

a. HomeAdditionPlus.com Answer: - If using corded power tools make sure that you use three pronged extension cords to avoid electrical shock. Check the weather in advance so you don’t find yourself racing to cover tools from rain and snow.

If you think you may need permits for your outdoor do it yourself project, check with your local building inspector. Putting up a fence, shed or deck without a permit in easy view of the public is just begging for problems.

4. In your opinion, what is the best insulation for the attic walls; and the attic floor?

a. HomeAdditionPlus.com Answer - For the Do It Yourselfer, I recommend batt or rolled insulation. It’s easy to install and does not require any complicated tools.

5. When renovating a bathroom, how do you attach panels to the face of an existing bathtub?

a. HomeAdditionPlus.com Answer – Have not done that one. (Charlie's insert)Probably best to frame out the front so that the panels have a shallow return (a couple of inches) at the top, which can be cut so that it hugs the contour of the tub.

6. We now have a door between our kitchen and dining room. We’d like to make it an arched opening about 8 ft. wide. We don’t think the wall is a bearing wall. What needs to be done to insure that the wall is structurally sound after we enlarge the opening?

a. HomeAdditionPlus.com Answer: Remove the drywall above the door opening. Then make a cardboard template of the desired archway and tape it in place. Once you feel you’ve got the right type of arch use the cardboard template to cut two ½” thick plywood arches.

Then, using a couple of lengths of 2x4s fasten them to the top and side walls of the doorway opening so that you have a nailing surface to attach the plywood arches. Before attaching the 2x4s you’ll need to rip 1 inch off of them.

Attach the plywood arches and then fill in some of the opening between the two plywood arches with additional 1 inch ripped 2x4 framing to add some additional rigidity and nailing surface. Finally drywall over the arch and along its open surface area.

If the arc is not too tight you may be able to bend the narrow drywall strip along the arch. Nail the drywall to the 2x4 studs that you inserted in between the two plywood arches. Then add flexible corner bead, tape and mud and you’re done.

7. When installing molding, is it better to miter the corners or cope the molding? Does it matter if it’s an inside or outside corner?

a. HomeAdditionPlus.com Answer: I prefer to cope the inside corners using a miter saw and coping saw. On the outside corners I exclusively use a miter saw.

8. I will soon be painting 2 bedrooms. I’ve heard about paint that is also a primer (saves a coat). Is this a good product to use, or should we stay with the traditional coat of primer first, and then 2 coats of paint? Also, would you use semi-gloss or flat paint on the walls? And on the ceilings?

a. HomeAdditionPlus.com Answer: We recently renovated our den which included painting over a dark red wall. We used light color paint that also included a primer.

9. I have a “wavy” floor in my upstairs bathroom which is now covered with linoleum. I wanted to install ceramic tile on the floor, but someone warned me that it might crack because the floor is wavy. How can I prevent the tile from cracking? Or should I give up on the idea of using ceramic tile?

a. HomeAdditionPlus.com Answer: For this do it yourself project, I would remove the old linoleum and level the floor. Consider using a self leveling compound. I would then suggest adding a ¼” backer board to the floor to create a strong stable surface for installing the ceramic tiles.

10. A relative just gave us a stained glass light fixture for our kitchen. It’s heavy, and I have to hang it from a sheetrock ceiling. I’m afraid a butterfly might get pulled through the sheetrock.

How do I make sure it’s properly secured – do I have to make a big hole in the sheetrock in order to put blocking in place, and then repair the sheetrock and repaint? Or is there a way to do it so that I don’t have to do all that extra work??

a. HomeAdditionPlus.com Answer: I would make every effort to fasten the stained glass to ceiling joists. Find the ceiling joists and then use fasteners that can hold the stained glass and that are secured with at least 2 inch long screws.

There are many more do it yourself projects Mark can help you with. If you have a question that Mark can answer, contact him at HomeAdditionPlus.com

I want to express my thanks to Mark. I appreciate his being willing to help my visitors with their do it yourself questions.

If you have a question for me about do it yourself projects, contact me here.

Return From Do It Yourself Q&A To Home Remodeling Ideas.

Find thousands of unbiased ratings on remodeling services at Angie’s List.