Concrete Stairs

Concrete stairs are typically used in commercial buildings, or outdoors. However, I have seen a few (that looked appropriate) in contemporary homes. Obviously, more traditional homes would lend themselves more to hardwood stairs.

Since you are probably reading this for some outdoor project you have in mind, you will be dealing with weather and other outdoor elements when building your concrete stairs. Here are a few steps (pun intended) for you to know about.

Step 1 - Determine the Size of the Stair by obtaining the overall dimensions. A step consists of a riser (the vertical face) and a tread (the horizontal surface).

A measurement is taken from the first floor level down to the grade and divided into risers of equal height, providing the riser height does not exceed local building codes.

An overall vertical height of 30 inches would give 4 risers each at 7 ½ inches, a standard height found in many residences. The overall horizontal length of the stairs is more arbitrary; treads 11 inches or greater in width will give a comfortably sized step and are fairly common.

The stairs will require a foundation, which is typically a slab poured to a depth of 6 inches below the grade level, with a perimeter equal to the footprint of the stairs (the total run by the total width of the stairs). Depending on the size and weight of the concrete stairs, your foundation might have to be deeper.

And if you are in a cold-weather zone, you will probably have to make it deep enough to be below the freeze line. Check with your local building department before doing anything.

Step 2 - Build the Form

Form-work can be built using plywood or structural framing members (2 x 4, 2 x 6 etc...) and is usually made from scrap or low-grade lumber. To begin, layout and cut the side forms according to the tread and riser calculations, so that they resemble a 2-dimensional side elevation of the stairs.

The forms should be fastened tightly and securely to the building’s foundation so that the new stairs will bond to the foundation wall in a seamless connection.

Wooden stakes are used as bracing to resist the outward thrust of the poured concrete. Use a level to ensure that the forms are plumb and the surface of the treads are level from side to side.

Step 3 - Pour the Concrete

The volume of concrete to be used is small enough so that mixing can be done manually. Concrete can be purchased as a pre-mixed, ready-to-use product that requires only adding water.

Water is added to the mix as needed (more will give a fluid, workable mix; less will result in a stronger concrete). A good rule of thumb when mixing concrete is to use 6 gallons of water per bag of cement.

Start at the bottom step and pour one step at a time. Once the concrete is poured it should be spread evenly throughout the form, while spading or roding the mix to remove trapped air.

Several finishing methods can be employed to achieve a smooth surface. A screed board worked front to back in a side to side motion will drag excess concrete from the treads. Using a trowel by hand will provide a finer finish.

The concrete should be kept wet or damp for up to a week after pouring and be protected from rain during the initial curing process. After this time the concrete has attained its final set and the form boards can be removed.

Don't hesitate to contact me if you have questions about concrete stairs by clicking here.

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